LR Workshop is the free, community generated database of Land Rover parts information.
This site aims to become the defacto source of information on Land Rover parts, by being more accessible than Microcat, more unbiased than the retailers, better curated than the forums and more accurate than all of them!
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Is the rocker cover on the switch available to purchase separately. It seems a waste of having to replace the complete switch everytime.
I've been doing some work on the steering of the 300TDi.
When I unscrewed the nyloc nut from the bar-tie-bent forging (part 594946) where it sticks through the arm radius front suspension (part NTC9461)... There was no bushing, should there be?
In my catalogue the parts are on different pages and no mention of a bush.
Could someone please advise?
...although a discussion on this forum highlights the questioning:
I have a question i have a rover 3.5 block with engine prefix 17g is this for a 110/90? What years ? Also what’s strange is the c/r is 9.35.1 even though its a 17g and most defender engine ratios where the lower 8.31.1 im not sure from which car this block came from any ideas
I am trying to purchase replacement hoses for (3) 2.2 tdci Defenders. When I look at kits, there is often a difference of LHD vs. RHD (300tdi for instance) but when I search part #'s for the 2.2 all the part #'s appear to be the same and the only difference is the mounting brackets. Can anyone verify that there is no difference in hoses for a LHD 2.2 vs. a RHD 2.2? I'm referring to coolant, boost/turbo, and air box tubing. As these trucks are 10+ years old, I would like to replace all the tubes at once...Thank you in advance for your input as I have no access to a RHD 2.2 Defender...
Another “headache “ i am dealing with at the moment is “how to wire up a pair of Nissan Patrol Y61 aftermarket towing mirrors and a control switch for a Silerado 1500. I couldn’t find a set that would fit so i bought these on ebay. Mirrors are mounted but my problem is i can’t work out the wiring. Issue being the mirror has 3 wires and the switch has 9 wires.
Can anyone out there help me with this one??
Can anyone help. I need to replace my timing belt but dont know which way to undo the Crankshaft pulley bolt. Is it clok wise or anti-clock wise. Engine turns Clock wise so im thinking anti-clock wise to undo?
I have tried using an impact wrench but it still does not budge, any ideas?
On all Parts Catalogues i have and online i dont see the Timing Belt Idler pulley picture or Part number - i do however see it on the 300TDi - ETC8560
i need to replace my timing belt and presume that it is the same pulley for the 200TDi
This however shows no Idler pulley on the 200TDi - definitely on the 300TDi
Your help is much appreciated.
So the question is: what is the most complete main harness that exists?
There is no problem if there will be connectors and functions left over. What can't be missing is connectors and functions.
According to my research, the most complete one would be the YMC002413. But we are not sure if it accepts ABS.
YMC002413" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.lrworkshop.com/pt/parts/YMC002413
So I want to know if anyone knows for sure which is the most complete main harness
but the question still remains. Which is the most complete main harness for 300 TDI?
It is a pity that there is no main harness available for TDI that accepts upgrades. ABS and traction control would be very welcome.
The 300Tdi had some relays down below the alarm ECU, but your 4 don't sound like they're from the factory.
I'm looking to source replacement plugs for the wiper switch, the light switch and the indicator switch on a 2.2 Tdci. Is there a loom repair kit or do I have to replace the complete loom?
The other connectors are listed here and you can try and find matching ones:
Or you could use other connectors you can find.
I look for throttle pedal for defender td5, year 2000. Part lr030568 no longer available. Do you have experience knowledge of an alternative? Thanx much
I've stripped my defender down to the chassis in order to paint it
It's and old 300 TDI galvanised Richards Chassis and looks pretty good considering its age.
Initially I was going to leave it - however since refurbishing the rear axle and a frame and rear suspension I seem to have created a clean spot which makes the chassis look shabby.
It has a little bit of surface rust around where the fuel tank was before I removed it and a film of dried mud over it and in most of the nooks and crannies - it's been bone dry so it is really dried on, not looking forward to getting it off!
I'm considering cleaning it down with a degreaser then using mordant acid etch to ready it for painting.
Its a long process so went something that will last
Any thoughts out there regarding what to paint it with - other than a brush :-)
I've looked at the Corroless range and it reads well...
Any thoughts / experience to share
Thanks in advance
Spent the day trying to get all the muck off and out of all the little nooks - tough job - only managed to get a third of the chassis cleaned up... Its a long one...
I'm after the measurments of spare wheel carrier parts :
PART AQU110010 The part that sticks through the bonnet with three pins. What is the width and height of each pin? The center to center measurements? What size is the thread? M10?
PART AQU110020 The part that secures the spare tyre. Internal & external diameters, width of steel 4mm? Overall height of unit, hole diameters...
It's just that with the price of these parts new and the state of my DEF I thought I'd make up my own.
Ihave three defenders now all in the troes of being revamped ostensibly for safari work in Southern Africa.
If possible can you please detail what the original assembly line of the defender was from chassis to completed vehicle my reasons being to align the chassis to cab to doors....thus assuming the chassis was on the assembly line starting from back to front..first fuel tank and fuel lines etc etc going forward.
Alignment of chassis to cab to windscreen to bottom cross braces critical to align the doors up...all has to be square to a center line and then bolts tightedn down....then follows the rest of the final assy.
would appreciate this info....as there must have been a sequential assy method. Best regard
The way the factory did it is probably not always best as they had alignment tools. Generally the best place to start is the rear tub. Mike has some good videos on ensuring the body lines up for the doors: https://www.youtube.com/c/BritannicaRestorations/search?query=alignment
but I can't ask any of the part websites to confirm my VIN & fitment because I got a weirdo. Has anyone been through this and know what I should be looking at? thanks in advance
First is anybody used Syncro Gearboxes R380 Disco to Defender Adapter Kit Fitting ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sn1siBvUDsY&list=PLN8LcwkQbLO2TU_MiEu1WGh0x0ubmmWCM&index=4&t=2s) to avoid any cutting in body and to keep gear leaver in same position avoiding and cutting in body??
My second question from where can I get a good condition engine harness for same engine, to be connect to ECU ( CUX14)??
300tdi 130 had 2 or 4 piston caliper?
rear calipers are new. The front should also be good, i rrplaced the pistons some years ago.
Can anybody help me with all the parts I need to convert my Defender 110 2 door to Soft top?
i have doubts about the rear axle half shaft for the 110 2003.y. with Rover axle type and VIN number 3A663612.
According to the diagram https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-axles-suspension/rear-axle/hubs-driveshafts-from-%28v%29-la930456_52628
by VIN number I get, to me, confusing data for axle half shafts.
According to the data on the half shafts that replaces the previous half shafts, it turns out that this last or final half shafts is not for my vehicle according to the VIN number
I would ask for help with the exact catalog number of the half shafts.
I got the same information, but I wanted to be sure that everything would be compatible with my Defender. I still have to find affordable half shafts for “light” off road, any recommendation is welcome (OEM, Allmakes, ..).
i have a 1984 110, with the lift-up handle style early doors.
I'm looking for the clips that are used to hold the waist cappings on the doors. Part number for the cappings are: MUC3929, MUC3928.
Regarding the wiper, the 300Tdi wiper motor is positive switched and the Td5 wiper motor is negative switched. This article is what I did to make the 300Tdi switch work with the Td5 wiper: https://www.landroverexpedition.com/technical/wiring-the-td5-rear-door-to-a-300tdi/. Are you doing the opposite, trying to get a Td5 switch to work with the 300Tdi setup?
I will post a video soon on my Youtube channel relating to wiring up the Td5 instruments to a 300Tdi loom if you're also interested.
Thank you for the reply, I am fitting a later TD5 door and using the TD5 switch, but with the original 300tdi harness. The video and link are really helpful, thanks again
So it says there is, but I can't find a gasket part number in the diagrams:
Maybe you can reuse the existing one?
Can you provide or point me in the right direction for the following :
Camshaft Journal diameter, Camshaft end play, Camshaft journal clearance when installed
Connecting Rod Large End bore and bearing clearance when installed on the crankshaft
Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter, Crankshaft end play and main bearing clearance when installed
Valve spring free length
NNW 501310 2 4200 ( followed part of vehicle vin number 6A728666) engine type 18p
I am new to Lr Workshop though not new to Land Rovers. What a brilliant resource! Don't know how haven't come across it before. Great job Will.
Could you please help me with how to work the diagram view . When I select a diagram the parts list is behind the drawing and I can't figure out how to move the diagram to one side or onto a different screen.
Thanks for your help.
perfect worked a treat feel a bit daft that I didn't think of that, keep up the good work.
This is the LHS: https://www.defender2.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5263&pos=3
And RHS: https://www.defender2.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5263&pos=4
Yes I can't find the nuts shown on any diagrams. The whole setup is kind of scattered around the horn, slam panel and 300Tdi radiator diagrams. The horn diagram here doesn't really look like it is in reality: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-electrics/ancillaries/horn_52803#4
Has anyone used a different type of inner window rubber seal MTC4994 when refurbishing a hardtop roof and replacing when done....MTC4994 is bloody expensive for a straight piece of rubber made in India or PRC....all it does is seal the front gap between front window retailer rubber with glass rebate...so I was thinking of I used a piece of rubber draught excluder, site adhesive and sikaflex it should work....suggestions please. MTC4994.....?????? seems like a no brainer
1. Oil warning light comes on when ignition is off, and goes off when ignition is on (the opposite of intended), a new oil pressure switch having been installed a month ago and having worked perfectly until now.
2. Charge warning light flickers on when driving, brighter when decelerating or going downhill, and goes off when accelerating or going uphill. However alternator appears to work perfectly, having had voltage regulator and battery replaced about 3 months ago.
3. Wipers randomly single wipe windscreen without switch operation. This occurs unexpectedly about every hour, and wipers still work normally if switch is activated.
I suspect a bad connection, maybe earth but nothing is obvious. Any suggestions please??!!
Could someone help me I’m
Looking for a engine wiring diagram and main harness diagram for 1976 series 3 defender 2.25 diesel can anyone help
I have to write a Spare part list for Expeditions with heavy off road use for td5 90s does anybody know what the common failing parts are for these?
I am only looking for stuff that would hinder further drive ability.
I hope one of you has more experience with TD5s :)
Defender 110 Hardtop, 96 model...what gear stroke does the wiper motor take. 140 degree or 115 degree. This what I have sourced ex LRW..is this right part number for my Landy? DLW000020" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/DLW000020
After a quick surch on the internet it looks like there is a lack of reasonably priced ones in good condition. This got me wondering if there is any mileage and or demand in having a run of 500 or so manufactured.
You mean producing the bolts or the engines? 200Tdis are always sought after as they can be retrofitted into 80's era vehicles quite easily and gives them a nice power upgrade. Defender versions of the engine are rarer than Disco ones, and they have differences. But the spares are harder to come by and a 300Tdi is probably a better option longer term for an engine conversion. Turner engineering are of the "go to" businesses for reconditioned engines in the UK, so I doubt there's much economy in trying to produce new engines.
ive got two that have issues , as much as I like to think I'm unique the law of averages suggests a lot of others will be having similar problems.
what do you reckon.
I need a new intercooler for m y 130 TDi 2.5 D....I can get a TD5 cooler...will the TD5 cooler fit and be suitable for the 2.5 TDi
I've got a few other electric issues but for now I thought I would change the under performing alternator with a standard 45 one.
simple enough I thought, ordered one, it arrived, removed the old one, then compared it to the new one and the connections are different.
the existing one has post type and the new one is a three spade euro type. I thought I had been supplied the wrong item, so I looked uner the bonnet of a laid up 200 defender and it has the euro connection . so i'm a bit confused. any suggestion welcome, thanks in advance
I've bought EWQ100280 & EWQ100290 (Part 5) from LRDirect and i've received these part numbers but the part looks more like part 6.
Anyone wise to this as LRDirect are refusing return.
A bit of gossip first. I had the unfortunate experience to view a Defender being rebuilt but having a CORVETTE engine fitted. A bloody huge monster engine, the new tires just as unwieldy. Why in God's name would anyone want to bastardise a icon vehicle?" Its not a Landy anymore," said my daughter..."its a damn disgrace just an off road racing machine." Think why the SAS used the defender...because it was easy to work on and it worked in any combat situation albeit the "soft skin"
Right, that is off my mind and now to my question. I have an old girl, being redone gradually 130 2.5 TDi...front wheel bearings replaced and after 2000. kms re-torqued to the correct settings a few days back. Before the re-torque when the vehicle is cold and I turn left or right I have this squeaking noise and as soon as the wheels are straight the sound fades. Curiously when engine is hot at normal temp and run a few kms. the squeak when turn is gone...totally. The noise is back again---And Ideas- advice. Please?
Next...the oil warning light shows only when the engine has done a steep climb over a mountain pass or ambient temp outside is very hot...semi-desert Karoo South Africa. Its an infrequent warning and the "little black box" also beeps....but as mentioned only when engine has worked hard. Otherwise there is not sound or light signal. Ive not fitted an oil gauge yet,(have one) and according to the Landy garage boffins oil pressure should be about 1.76 cold start BAR and when hot .5 bar.
My prognosis to this red light warning is a bad grounding wire....thus can anyone "out there" point me to approx location on the chassis where I could check a faulty ground wire to the dash oil warning light. Or maybe there is another latent problem in the making!
One life-Life It.
I am replacing the water pump with a new unit as well as the tensioner auxilliary drive belt. NOT all makes 4x4 brands. But am curious why you suggest the power steering pump as this was replaced with a recon one recently. Transition fluid to the reservoir remain at a "full level". Surly if there was a hassle with steering ump I would notice drag on turning tight corners and reversing. or am I mistaken here, Will?
Would replacing H2O pump and belt tensioner also cause the red oil waring light to show as explained in the original query listed above.
Hope you can steer me in the right direction.....LOL,
Be safe there. UK seems to be taking a serious bashing with Covid.
Kind regards and thank fr your your dedication to Any guts would wide,
Re oil light, the switch is earthed through the engine block. Not uncommon for them to go bad. Also check the wire (behind injection pump) in case it's broken
Thank you for the feedback. PSP is what. Please enlighten
Next, Im replacing water pump and tensioner pulley and arm...are there any hidden problems to watch out for when undoing bolts, pipes etc.
Thanks for your dedicated info,
My questions are the original gearbox is a lt77 and I think i will have to change the bell hosing as the v8 is an auto box, but which one and will the input shaft be long enough?
Also on replacement chassis are the V8 engine mounts all in the same place?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance
Anyone know as to who made the C1048 Connector that is used on the 1999-2002 Defender. Its the one that connects the instrument cluster to the vehicle wiring loom C1040. Is it still available, or at least the PINS from the connector? I have just spent 2 days and nights going through 2 very BIG international suppliers of electric bits and bobs online catalogs for PINS and can't find the right ones. Frustrating when you don't even know who the company was that made the connector that your trying to fix in the first place.
I must confess, never heard of the forums nor the company that made those connectors. This now makes you a living LEGEND twice over matey! ;D
Pipe-evaporator/compressor air conditioning if i want to change it, somebody already done this, i see the begining of the pipe and the end but it goes unther the electronic unit in the middle of the enginebay , do i have to brake down the whole engine bay or can i reach it by pulling the electronic unit away? thx
Firstly a few things will suggested handbrake working on the calipers in 30 year toyota hasn't got it to do anything that resembles acutually working the 70 series is actually small shoes ont he inside of the disks, terrain tamer actually offer a disk brake to fit to the rear of the transfer case this is the superior setup IMO only whould prefer a disk over the landies drum, the drums fillt up with dust leaking oil etc and stop working very well.
Rather that trying to use toyota parts where you need the vin because its likely they randomly changed something because it saved them 20cents per item in the manufacturing process, standard size bearings ie generically avalible at a bearing shop rather than propiety half sizes some manufacturers are implementing.
I would of prefered to see a more widely avalible engine driveline supplier rather than BMW which here at least has a non existant presence outside the major metro area's here at least, I have an Isuzu powered landrover with a proper commercial motor in it not to be confused with the D-max motor. It works very very well.
Thins I would look for, manual yes, a proper low range not to be confused withthe excuses for low range gearing as fitted tot he 70 series hilux, dmax, ranger etc etc something at least as low and the 110. Other essential things and some of the things that killed the 70 series in the mining industry, air filtration proper cyclonic dual element filter and no a rasied air intake is not a substitute for one, definatly not one of the stupid flat pannel thigs that don't really work and if you do something checking it regularly are really easy to pinch the seal and negating the filter completely. Fuel filtration with water trap sedimenter primary and secoundary filter and not the carry over from you mechanical injected motor that is single element and stops working with 30ml of water. This will also improver reliability and reduce warranttee claims there really is no downside to this IMO. Alternator that is mounted just under the bonnet and not down somewhere near the sump, if the oil filter sits upside down in the engine bay a seperate drain plug for the filter. Full size spare do not hang it off the rear door on the wagon this has never worked on any 4WD I have ever come across it always either tears holes in the rear door or wrecks the door hinges if you are lucky both.
Cab chassi option big fuel tank (90litre minium) option of an aux and 7inch round headlights (easy to protect cheap to replace glass so they don't go yellow in the sun and plenty of LED upgrades so people so desire.
Thanks for taking the time to put your thoughts down. My experience with the 70 series is more limited than Defenders so I've certainly plucked a few ideas from them that I liked. Your experience is interesting to hear.
The handbrake may not be a deal-breaker. Agree I would expect disc brakes all round in this day and age. Just that sometimes a transmission brake is not very confidence inspiring on steep slopes!
RE: the commonly available parts, similar to you said, using Toyota parts is just proxy for using parts that already exist around the world. Standard size bearings should be standard because they're used in lots of vehicles. It also means you can tap into the scrapyards that have heaps of Cruisers already.
The BMW choice is making quite a few people wary. I have no experience with them, and they don't have a utility vehicle in their lineup. It may be a false start but I can only put my faith in German engineering!
Drain plug on the oil filter is a good shout. The reason I said about the top-access for the filter is if you don't have a pit it's so much easier.
Toyota are very good as making vehicles that are almost good enough 80% of the time, generally with the 70 series if you work them hard the drive line start to fall out of it after 120 000kms with the old 1HZ the motor was cheaper to rebuild than a gearbox/transfer case you'd go through a couple of gearboxes by the time the motor was dead. The motor that required 12 litre oil changes every 5000kms and drank like a fish, you can physically fit 20litres /100km's without speeding or towing on the highway through a 4 litre motor although 15-17 was more typical. Most surface mining companies get rid of them around 70-80 000kms the point where people will pay extraordinary amounts of money for them.
I think you'll need a crank angle sensor with everything in the default and the check engine lit up like a Christmas tree to get a modern diesel to run the ecu will still need to time the injectors throttle position might be helpful too. Oddly most companies sensors are exactly the same same properties etc etc, its just the propriety connector, length of cable and or thread that stops them been generic.
I'm looking at the Fuel Pipes - With Sedimentor - 110/130 2.5L 4 Cyl Diesel to WA159806 diagram the inset looks remarkably like the side tank fitted to the 110 Perentie, I initially was thinking it was a twin tank system, does this seem right?
at some point Jaguar Land Rover either screwed down it's supplier on price and there for got a poorer grade of axle and drive flange or they are coming from another supplier with the same poor quality result.
Hence Defender TDCi models (puma 2007 on) suffer premature wear which can occur as little as 10,000KM.
TOB500020 / TOB500030 - original part number for axles (half shafts) this is the same part number for earlier Defender TD5 models but the wear issue was generally not a big issue. The same part number for the Defender TDCi (puma, 2007 on) yet if checked for hardness on the rockwell scale they are a lot lower than the previous TD5 models, keep in mind even if replacing axles on a TD5 model, you are now going to get the same poorer quality axles (ie softer).
LR072976 / LR072977 - These are the later one piece axle and drive flange, later model Defenders as in round the last year of production these axles/drive flanges were used. They are expensive
NSR / 859 - part number, Ashcroft Transmission axle set and drive flange set. Both the axle and drive flange on the rockwell scale are about twice as hard as the original part and are a cost effective solution.
I also recommend greasing the axle / drive flange over the oil fed method.
What started as a new bulkhead is now a complete nut and bolt restoration. I'm trying to find a part number for the thread and bolt that attach the pipe centrifuge oil drain to the sump. The diagrams on here show them as bolts but that's not what has come/snapped off. 2001 td5 engine.
It's taken a long time to get here but I have a chassis for a 110 SW and all other parts (cab, engine, gearbox, suspension etc) from a 2007 110 SW.
Should there be any issues with putting these together? My mechanic (not a LR specialist) is saying the cab is not going to line up with the chassis as it's a bit narrow according to his checks.
If there are modifications to be made or specific kinks to look out for, any help in identifying those?
Say we compare a TD5 chassis to a TDCi (puma 2007 on) basically the same but there will be variations in small items such as bracketing and small mounts and the older the chassis you got there will be more little things different. The basic body will fit and will require you to fit and see as to what bolts, holes, brackets line up.
Can you help i have a 2.5 petrol engine fitted into my series 2A, engine manufactured around 1984. until very recently it ran really well.
It is now difficult to start and i am getting oil up through the breather into the carburetor so end up with a clouds of blue smoke.
i checked the spark plugs and cleaned them as they were all wet with oil.
Have disconnected the breather pipes from the engine so the carb is separate but still get blue smoke from the engine which does help.
I can only think the problem is either head gasket or valve stem seals.
Has any one experienced this also if so please advise
Looking for fastenings which hold the front wheel arch to the chassis. Specifically the front wheel arch to the chassis. there are two bolts which bolt directly to the chassis. Im looking for ones fitted to a puma.
if anyone can direct me to the part numbers I would be grateful.
is it possible to put the electric-infos (LRWorkshop-Section: "Electrics/Connector Library" as well as "Fuse Boxes") in the LRWorkshop-Site?
Thanks in advance and greetings
I mean the infos about the 2,2 litres Puma Defender from 2012 - 2016.
I don't have the info which is why it's not in the site. If someone's able to provide it then I can put it on this site.
The differential is called a "long nose Rover diff" and is found in all 300Tdi onwards 90s. 110/130 differentials won't fit. It'll likely be a 2 pin diff
Might be worth looking into that.
Hope that makes sense?
What parts do you think you need? I imagine oil seals and o-rings would have been standard sizes (imperial though) and the only gasket in the hubs is a standard Land Rover part ( 231505 ). If you know which parts need replacing, i'm sure you would be able to find them easily enough.
I hope this helps and sorry for the late reply.
If you have all the part numbers for the inventory you have, you could make a list on LR Workshop and name it "Inventory" or something.
Hope this helps.
It's something I want to build at some point, as I have the same issues of forgetting what I've got in the garage!
I use lists at the moment as Sam has suggested but I'll look into an export option for lists in the meantime. (As an aside, the data on the site is backed up in 3 separate places every 12 hours)
I am getting a rackling noise somewhere around my right front wheel. It usually occurs over bumpy roads. I have looked at all visible parts around the area and nothing seems unusual. Any suggestions? Sorry I have a TD5 110 Defender 2005.
I am doing a complete restoration on a 1982 Land rover 109 3.5 v8
How do i buy parts here online after I agree with a list?
While this website is amazing, you can't purchase parts directly from it. You would have to find an online retailer like Paddock Spares or John Craddock etc. These can be found at the bottom of the list.
I hope this helps.
As Sam says the links at the bottom of the list will take you directly to that part on the retailers website and add it to the basket once there. Unfortunately I can't prepopulate the shopping baskets from this site
Does anyone here know what size the bolts are that hold the standard Series 3 towing equipment on are? I know there are two 3/8UNF x 5" through the top, but threw the rest away and forgot how many & what size they were - I recall about 15mm or 5/8" OD.
I have just looked this up in the optional equipment catalogue from 1984 and it is as follows.
Top bolts as you say are 256256 now bh606401l 3/8unf x5
Lower bolts 256336 5/8unf x6
The bolts for the ball hitch 256322 now bh610181l 5/8unf x 2 1/4
I didnâ€™t bother measuring the current bolts on my siii as they are most likely later and it is under a tarp at the moment.
Hope this helps.
Amazing as always! Thank you very much.
I am naerly sure I need to replace the potentiometer but it seems that I can only buy a complete unit SLC100210 / LR030568 (should fit for my MY 2000 10P engine, or ?) Does anybody know if just the plastic case with the electronics and connector is available somewhere ? I would be very thankful for any help.
Have you checked that the wiring from the pedal is ok? If you have not done so already are the wires in the loom and connectors from the pedal good? Although I have not had this issue before I do know someone who had a wire rubbed through that caused issues like yours.
Got a few questions about injector pumps - I sent my original one off a while ago to a specialist to get serviced and was told that it would need rebuilding. Not that I don't trust the guy, but it ran alright (-ish) beforehand and Â£500 seems a bit excessive to me. I could buy a reconfitioned one for under Â£300 or maybe it's Â£500 - You see, someone in the past changed some stuff in the engine bay.
1st, The cylinder head was a pale green colour, when the 2.25l diesel should be black.
2nd, The flywheel casing is a 5 main bearing version when I have a 3 bearing engine block.
3rd, the clutch cover bolts are M8, which means it's metric, on an imperial block ( Why on earth would you change a flywheel!?)
And finally, the Injector pump (maybe). It has rod and lever operated controls, only used until 1968. This is a 1979 Series 3.
As you can see, I'm a bit confused as to what has happened.
Tl;Dr: Which injector pump: 564495 Or ERR6604 for a weird engine?
Many thanks (If you understood that!)
I recently had my tractor injector pump rebuilt for 380 plus vat and injectors overhauled for 45 plus vat. You need to trust who you use, there are rebuilds and there are rebuilds! Regardless of how it was running, age is a killer injector pumps fill up with micro dirt over the years. Add to that the bio now added to diesel and will be worth getting done.
Thanks for the information about the head, I think I might send the pump somewhere else, just to check it's a fair price.
The block was a 5MB block, so the flywheel casing was correct, The injector pump was indeed a cable operated unit, and I decided after a few YouTube videos, I would have a go at rebuilding the pump myself. Â£30 seal kit was a no-brainer in comparison to the professional rebuild.
As far as I can tell from a bit of looking around on the internet, 541010 is a cover plate, but named incorrectly on the website. If you want the breather I think ERR506 is the right part. This is just a bit of guesswork so apologies if I'm wrong.
Try here http://www.automotiveconnectors.com/sumitomo-hm-series-green-splice-connector.html
I ordered a genuine 2nd Speed Gear for the LT76 gearbox 2 weeks ago but it hasn't showed up yet. The supplier has told me that they are trying to source one. My question is: Is it worth it - a genuine gear. And if so, where do I buy one to cut out the supplier completely?
Who was the supplier as some are more reliable than others? If you would rather not say I completely understand. As for the genuine over aftermarket there are so many variables on this subject you almost turn yourself inside out. I tend to go genuine if the price is not stupidly over the top. I would tend go genuine on a I important gearbox part. I asked about the supplier as some seem to take your money without it being in stock or having any idea about the lead time for the part. I hope this in some way helps.
Thanks for the reply, I checked the suppliers you mentioned - a gear has been ordered. If it is useful to anyone else the original supplier was John Craddock Ltd, they did send plenty of e-mails telling me that they didn't have one in stock and it would be worth trying somewhere else.
On front vented brake calipers for a 2001 Defender 130 mounted in the spacer between the 2 halves is an O ring seal with a hollow pin inside of the O ring for the fluid to pass through, now on Wills diagram's it lists a part Number https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/17H8764L but from just eyeballing it it looks to wide a diameter and far to shallow in depth to be the O ring I'm after. These O rings look more like a small section of rubber hose than anything else, say about 5-7mm in depth, any one happen to know what part number they are and where to get them from?
Those 3851-739's are the wee beasty's I need !
The second link is the rear seal, same type that most landy part dealers sell.
What is the difference of these two calipers .with a very small modifie you can fit one or the other thats wat i learned now(not from you) . bud i still do not now what is NFI ???
i measured them please who can help me find
Bearmach and Britpart seem comparable in quality. The most important thing is that the splines are greased on reassembly!
Ä° am working on my free time on a ninety 1984 there are so many things to do and have a lot to ask . i have to use google transfer to write here and takes lot of time can i call you by phone my personal email is firstname.lastname@example.org greetings from Belgium
It may be easier to get an off the shelf gearbox cooler kit, instead of trying to source the LR parts!
Hi Nero I'm going to vist a local Hydraulic firm when next it town. I've worked with LT77 for a while, uncooled, & find no worries, the only possible weakness is the paralel bearings can wear prematurly if too much long motorway work is done. Not much chance of that here. The oil feed is taken care of on LT77 as the box is built with an pump & filter.
So whatâ€™s suitable bushing kit for this defender? There are no shock absorbers. Itâ€™s possible to install?
Thanks you again and what to say thanks for (Lrworkshop.com)team cause its best website ever for LR lover.
Basically I'm trying to find the part number or what type of vehicle it's for. Parts of what I assume to be the engine harness have been cut off, as have the lighting connectors on the wing sections. Any help appreciated!
Issue I have that when tank is full with petrol the Fuel gauge not Stable and even for vehicle rise not sable and it need more rise to start move?? anybody has clue ?? is the issue with fuel pump or with level sender ??? or there is some electrical issue with connections ???