LR Workshop is the free, community generated database of Land Rover parts information.
This site aims to become the defacto source of information on Land Rover parts, by being more accessible than Microcat, more unbiased than the retailers, better curated than the forums and more accurate than all of them!
Made in the UK by Will and his two Defenders' insatiable appetite for parts. Get in touch via , Instagram @lr_workshop, tweet @LRWorkshop, comment on Youtube or contact on Facebook.
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G'day to all. I have just replaced the injector loom on my TD5 with a modified one from Davis Performance in Sydney Australia. Their modification stops the continuous migration of engine oil through the harness to the outside of the engine. Since fitting this harness there are no more tell-tale oil drips underneath, much less topping up of the oil and the motor is now clean. I don't know if anyone in GB does this but it is a worthwhile investment for any TD5. Check out their website: https://performancelandies.com/landrover/modification/td5-modified-injector-harness/
The model description is 110 Perentie Fitted for Radio Variant, Truck, Utility, Lightweight, FFR, MC2.
Some parts and wiring are different, but essentially it's a 110 with a galvanised chassis and heavy duty + 2" suspension as standard and heavy duty rims, rims are also different.
If no just tell me to bugger off :-)
19 and 22 should be FS108256 as the other diagrams are. FB108251 is 125mm, way too long.
So check if you have a delete button. A tip though, copy (ctrl + c) the comment before hand then you can paste it back saving you retyping the whole thing if you just want to add to it or correct spelling.
diagrams/land-rover-defender-transfer-box/transfer-box-lt230/gear-change_53748 should be MA939976 on
Again, is this the correct way to address these refinements, or is the "Is there anything wrong with this diagram?" link preferred?
FQA I don't know for sure, but it might be Fastener Quality Act: https://www.indfast.org/info/fastener_quality_act.asp. Although it's odd that it appears on a plastic part. FQA is commonly used in many LR fastener names
Yes happy to deal with things here or the diagram link is fine also.
300 TDi engine oil dipstick....is this pipe made in two pieces or one piece?
Crazy question. Seems mine is two---- the joint (apparently sealed with PRATLEY putty? is where the pipe secures ro the engine block
Cant find a prt number and seems this pipe is difficult to remove from the engine block, Please advise
Thx for the link re fitting TD5 intercooler to 300 TDi engine...seems like it can be done...however what is your recommended input...change to TD5 or try locate a new cooler for 300. setup?
Thanks for the feedback re-heater wiring. I reconnected the resistor that seemed t have continuity and flowed the colour coded wiring info and alas still now power came thru on the fan control speed regulator inside the cab. The figured the resistor slide was kaput and to repair this a new slide-push cable must be reinstalled. Can't find this part anywhere ere in RSA (South Africa) other than a secondhand one at an expensive price. To fix the problem I wired in a direct on-off switch that works the fand at a constant speed. In retrospect, to save costs on another slide heat control a two-way switch could be installed. I could not find one in the remote region I'm in. Later she said. I do this when back in a more accessible situation where I could find a switch.
Thank you for the recent advice again. An old problem that I have partly attended to. I found a discarded heater blower in a junkyard. Paid 2 pounds for it. took back to my camp. stripped it down, cleaned it up painted it and it ran perfectly. I assume is was of a series 2 Landy as there are only two wires positive and negative. Changed the wires.
Now to the hassle.
I removed the heater box in the defender to discover THEY had bought a cheap Chinese desk fan and cut the guards to the blade and retrofitted the fan. A total B-up. So I dismantled the entire heater box into all its components straightened and replaced the rubber covers to the vents with a yoga mat, repainted and pop-riveted the heater together. Perfect. The resistor that was in the THEY left in place and bypassed this with another circuit which I have removed, thus I assume the resistor is OK part number UTP1281 with three wire harness
According to Landy Spares for the series 2 blower to operate I need part UTP1904
A new blower is around 142 pounds 3000.00 ZAR
Im not keen to throw a good blower motor away
It there a way I can change the defender resistor harness UTP1281 to run the blower? The slide control and push-pull cables are cleaned and fixed so there's no hassle there.
Any suggestions Will. No UTP1281 part available in SA
Thanks and kind regards
Hello, out there Landy Boffins. Can anybody shed light here??
Voice in the wilderness calling. Damn cold early morning checking out sensor cameras.
Thanks for great service in sourcing parts diagrams. I have stripped out the bench seat, floor plates and cleaned the transfer box of outside grunge. I now find the idiots who had the Landy before were coarse in the way they went about fixing, any damn thing on my Landy
I note they have used Pratley epoxy and used a Phillips screw to retain the speedo fork on the transfer box. I can slowly chisel out the Pratley and use a Dremel to clean the residue left behind. Just hope I can remove the Phillips screw and assume it is a 6 mm dia.
I've looked on the speedo diagram and see there is no mention how this wishbone clip is retained on the casing. I pic was sent by a spares outlet here in SA showing a new LT 230 box. The pic shows a hole, guess its 6mm.
When I have got the damn Phillips screw out I plan to clean the tread, assuming the case is threaded and replace with a SS cap screw using copper slip in case of future needs to replace the cable again.
Your advice, please? And how the wishbone is held in place?
It's this M6 stud and washer/nut https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-transfer-box/transfer-box-lt230/main-casing_53755#14
Im stranded alone, just me and my Landy ad a dog. Got comms, for now, sending from the Bush in South Africa. I want t try to fix my Landy speedo, Can't find any info where the gearbox end slides in and the best way to access this. Before I dismantle footplates....ill check the binnacle. The speedo indication jumped all over the dial then went dead...I do have another spare cable. If you're constantly in the bush, you gotta keep spares. Please help with info
Ive tried to find the diagram on LR workshop but cannot find where the cable is depicted. It is not under electrical and not under 300TDI engine. Where to find?????
Speedo cable is in the dash diagram https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-electrics/instruments-clock/instruments_52863#21
The Speedo drive is in the transfer box on the rear housing left side behind the handbrake cable
--ISO/BS/DIN/... references for standard parts and further descriptions like dimensions or material/surface coating
--Nuts, bolts that have a reference torque setting could have them added directly in the diagram. Makes looking up the correct value easier.
--Some parts are also used in other vehicles or tractors - reference part numbers would help getting a parts that is NLA@LR
--Some parts can be remanufactured using a 3d-printer; a provision to share a link into those 3d-part-libraries like prusaprinters, grabcad or thingieverse would be great
Good ideas. Probably the best way at the moment would be to add comments on a part's page. That's where I tend to put OEM/alternate numbers
I've done so already; though I think having a dedicated field in the database allows for more uses and features in future. BTW, Is there a way for me to find all my contributions I've made in the past?
Ive managed to get a spring made just before lockdown. Removal of the pedal is easy. Just a tiny rolll lin holds the shaft in place onto which the pedal depresses. You need a 2mm pin punch to knock the pin out and a pair of vice-grips, a magnet to keep the pin safe and another small part, if I recall correctly. I used a 2.5 gauge steel wire to make the spring. Another alternative is take the old spring and heat it up to cherry red on gas stove and twitch the spring lever open to increase pressure, then quench in old motor oil.
A pedal diagram showing all parts., no number is available on google chrome pics. Just search defender TDi 300 accelerator pedal assy.
Hope this helps.
Lockdown had given me time to work on my beloved TDi. Powerwashed the chassis and hand painted
Where would I locate the part number for the accelerator pedal return spring. You know..such a simple part and difficult to find in RSA/
Thx guys for your feedback
I have just started to restore 1980 Land Rover Series 3 Stage 1 with my family members. However, I have trouble to find the gearbox type in which we have found this reference on the gearbox : 88101762A with constant 4WD. Furthermore, in the past this land rover series 3 had V8 ROVER Petrol Engine but someone has changes it and installed DIESEL ENGINE, ISUZU
4BD1, 4 CYLINDER 3.9 LITRE.. Does anybody knows if it is LT95 GEARBOX? Can you please send your information on the forum. Thank you MATE:-) FOR HELP ME.
If I have understood your question correctly it would appear your gearbox is correct for the vehicle. If you look in James Taylorâ€™s specification guide for the Series III page 43, states â€˜ LT95 gearbox for all 109 V8 models and probably 88â€™s as well, suffix A onlyâ€™. The prefix number is 881 so matches the number you state.
Hope this is what you were after?
Is it possible for the overdrive parts diagrams to be added to the website? I have found the diagrams online and can e-mail them to you if required.
Just a thought.
Yes I have them thanks along with the other "optional parts". I'll be able to get round to it one day!
Heating is missing
btw... a lot more Series parts are in there
don't know if already discussed...
It would be very helpful to also provide the
footnotes in the drawings.
It often helps a lot to pick the correct part.
I agree - I often find myself flicking between lrworkshop and the full parts book.
Ooooh - a button... Sounds fancy... I think the button sounds great, but whatever's easiest.
one (? :-) ) error in german translation
"Cooling and Heating" ist in german just "Kuehlen und Heizen" not "Getriebe"
its possible to help with translation?
If you see anything that needs translating then i'm happy to add it. Jennyfan has done a lot of what you see already, but there's always more to do
german: "Fuellstandstopleuchte" is wrong, but "Dritte Bremsleuchte" is ok
is there a reference on the meaning of the part number prefixes ?
e.g. RTCxxx STCxxx FRCxxx AAUxxx etc. etc.
I was told
RTC = RoverTriumphCars
LRC = LandRoverColour
Why have some parts a prefix and others not ?
I've not come across any documentation explaining the prefixes. What you describe sounds plausible. The prefixes tend seem to broadly follow vehicle system, e.g. lots of suspension components are NTC or ANR, engine parts can be ERR. Although I suspect it is just an internal description coding structure. It could be related more to the size and warehouse location of the part instead of the vehicle application.
Land Rover originally started with 4-6 digit part numbers and these mostly moved to the ABC1234 style codes around the 80's I think. In recent years lots of parts have been renamed to the LR123456 style. If you find anything more out then let us know! :)
Just saw that some assorted bits of drawing had been labelled as a part on the Series 3 88" Tailboard Page
Noticed that part number 90510912 had been split in half on the Series 3 Rear Body 88" Diagram ( https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-series-3-chassis-body/series-3-body/body-rear-body-88in_425#13 )
Item #12 and #13
Noticed that this happened again on the Series 3 Sill Panels Page ( https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-series-3-chassis-body/series-3-body/body-sill-panels_415#27 )
I was about to upload images to part RTC3346 and noticed they are described as 75mm. This is incorrect this part number is for the 82mm ones.
Noticed that part number 568335 was actually linked as 68335. Can anything be done to change this?
NRC7314-5-Fittings/323821237060?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908103841%26meid%3D39641feb2e7f402f84e756f361a68c4c%26pid%3D100227%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D11%26sd%3D323821237060%26itm%3D323821237060%26pg%3D2054502&_trksid=p2054502.c100227.m3827" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-2-2a-3-Rear-Stainless-Brake-Pipe-Mounts-NRC7314-5-Fittings/323821237060?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908103841%26meid%3D39641feb2e7f402f84e756f361a68c4c%26pid%3D100227%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D11%26sd%3D323821237060%26itm%3D323821237060%26pg%3D2054502&_trksid=p2054502.c100227.m3827
On the later CV/halfshafts, the spacer and circlip are not separate parts (items 2,3,4,5), so i've removed them
For the air con facia, the grommet in the bulkhead was placed on the wrong side of the diagram, so I moved it over by where the pipe exits (item 11)
Thanks to @expanse for the report
As well as 15 and 16 in this diagram: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-vehicle-controls/vehicle-controls-controls/clutch-pedal_45162
These both conflicted with the pre-94 diagram.
Thanks to @hendriks for the report